Shoes 'n' Boots of the Week: 2020-Last Vibergs, Very Fast Nicks, Scorpion Cowboy Boots, and More

It’s a tight roundup this week, but a good one: custom configuration Nicks that go to build in two weeks are about as close to summer Christmas as anything short of the AEST time zone. Plus, we’ve got the return of honey glazed shell cordovan at Grant Stone, a new leather at Truman, and more.

While you’re at is, take a look at our previous roundups here.

[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]

Division Road x Viberg Service Boot 2020 in Coffee Vachetta Minerva: $1,045

It’s been a minute since we’ve seen a new Viberg release on the 2020 last. It’s an anatomical last, so the right and left sides of each boot are far more asymmetrical than on a something more traditional, and it’s got a narrow waist that hugs the foot (we covered it in more detail here). The other notable detail here are the Dainite half-soles, which help play up the shape of the waist. The uppers are veg-tan—Badalassi Carlo’s Minerva tannage—and construction is double-row stitchdown. Classic Viberg Service Boot stuff right here.

Brooklyn Clothing x Viberg 1035 Service Boot in Natural Chromexcel: $1,010

Brooklyn Clothing just added a natural Chromexcel version of their core Viberg boot: a cap-toe service boot on the round-toed 1035 last with a Dainite outsole. Previous versions of the model were run on the 2030 last, so these newer boots offer a little more width and a round toe shape.

Brooklyn Clothing x Viberg Navvy Boot in Tanganiyka Noisette: $1,040

Brooklyn Clothing also picked up the Tanganiyka Noisette version of the Viberg Navvy Boot. It’s definitely on the formal side given the leather sole, and the grain texture, which—unlike just about every else with a pattern this fine—isn’t embossed. This makeup features a fudged 270˚ flat welt and a combination of blind eyelets and speed hooks.

Grant Stone Edward Boot in Honey Glazed Shell Cordovan: $795 (Pre-order)

There’s something special to light shell cordovan colors, and the combination of shine, depth of color, and the potential of some truly incredible patina on a leather that can shrug of a lot of abuse and still polish up like new. For one (or all) of those reasons, Grant Stone’s honey glazed shell preorders tend to sell out more or less instantly.

Right now they’ve got the Brass, Edward, and Ottawa boots available, plus the Traveler penny loafer, at just about the best deal you can get on Horween shell cordovan anywhere. If they’re gone by the time you see this (possible!!), you’d be wise to get on Grant Stone’s newsletter list for updates on the next run.

Nicks Lightning Ship Boots in Various Black Leathers: $549-$629 (Made to Order)

Nicks has too much black leather, and they’re trying to move it… fast. To that end they’re offering “lightning ship” custom configuration boots with a hand full of different closure methods, including three lace-up boots, a Chelsea, and their Wellington pattern. The big deal is that these go to the bench within two weeks of your order—custom configuration orders typically take as long as six months. You leather choices are Ash Grey 1964, and black MaxSupport, Weathershield, Chromexcel, waxed flesh, or Spokanne.

Truman Boot Co. Casual Boot in Eastern Brown Snakebite: $440

Two pieces of news from Truman: First, they renamed their lasts. The old numerical system is gone, replaced by a…WORD. The 79 for example is now the “Casual” last. Second, they’ve got a handful of new makeups in Seidel’s Eastern Brown Snakebite, a hot stuffed, vegetable retanned leather with a ton of pull-up but seemingly a little less shine than Double Shot or Chromexcel. It’s being offered in stock the Casual last…

Truman Boot Co. Formal Boot in Eastern Brown Snakebite: $440

…and the “Formal” last, which you might just recognize as the old 56 last. It’s narrower than the Casual, and features a cap-toe, but both makeups share the same 270˚ storm welt, Eugene outsole, and hardware configuration.

Rancourt Kiltie Loafer: $328

At risk of being controversial: these are a far easier way to dip your toe into the Maine moccasin genre than you might think. Boat shoes have a very strong connotation, and even after the cultural resuscitation of the loafer, beefrolls can still catch a little flack. But the proximate cultural antecedents of the Kilite loafer are creepers and aggressively chunky modern loafers, and even still, they’re fringe (ha!) enough to avoid being typecast into a definite stylistic box by most people.

Of course, you’re probably better off not worrying what other people think about your shoes in which case—handsewn construction, nice upper leather, a dark forest outsole—Rancourt is still offering something that’s extremely compelling on the merits.

Houston Boot Company Russell Boot in Black Calfskin: $750

The boots themselves are not new per se, but Ben just did a fantastic/very fun Shoecast interview with Houston Boot Company founder and Head Jake, Jake Houston. Jake’s a custom cowboy bootmaker in Virginia City, Nevada, doing full bespoke work that starts around $4k. But he also designed a line of “shelf” boots made in León, Mexico that are fully wood-pegged and a pretty darn great deal for the price in terms of handmade cowboy boots, including these square-toed Russell boots.

Check out the Shoecast below…