The May showers are coming in strong, with a 14-deep roundup that’s also one of the densest we’ve had in a while. There’s Clinch, a new collab from Division Road and Tricker’s in some awesome chamois, a Brandle last available at Nicks for the first time, and a ton more below.
Keep up with the weekly roundups here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Clinch Yeager Boots in Black Gustavo Cowhide: $1,560
Not one, not two, but three version’s of Clinch’s Yeager service boots are currently available at East West Apparel. Hand lasted and welted, the big sell is of course the intricate geometry of Clinch’s lasts—though the CN-S last may not fit higher volume feet. There’s a corded outsole from O’Sullivans, and upper in either black…
Clinch Yeager Boots in Natural Gustavo Roughout: $1,560
…or natural roughout. Not very many sizes left!
Division Road x Tricker’s Burford Boot in Dark Rust Chamois Roughout: $765
The Horween-tanned Dark Rust Chamois that Division Road broke out for their latest Tricker’s collab really is something special, with a ton of texture, warmth, and depth of color. The Burford places it on a 6″ boot with with a 360˚ storm welt, and a Vibram Vi-Lite lug sole. On the bump-toed 4497 last, that gives you a fairly serious amount of boot to work with without actually weighing you down too much. The pattern (especially in the quarters) and the leather selection mean they’re extremely distinct, but probably wouldn’t look out of place anywhere a more typical, say, brown CXL service boot wouldn’t.
Division Road x Tricker’s Monty Chukka in Horween Dark Rust Chamois: $745
On the flipside (literally), the Monty uses the same Chamois but flipped grain out, and once again the Vi-Lite sole a 4497 last make for a quite substantial chukka. The generously spaced 4-eyelet pattern also makes them taller than average for a chukka—they feel more like a slightly shorter boot than anything belonging to its own genre, and it works quite well.
Haven x Tricker’s Tramping Shoe in Earth Castorino Suede: $870
Haven is a clothing brand and retail operation based in Vancouver. Their focus is often more technical than a Tricker’s collaboration would suggest, but then again a Gloxi Cut-equipped Daniel isn’t exactly your average tramping shoe either. The makeup leans into a more utilitarian look while still taking ample advantage of the 4497s last, which retains elegant proportions despite the bump toe and the width. In addition to the suede version…
Haven x Tricker’s Tramping Shoe in Black Hidro: $870
…they’re also available in black.
Nicks 1925 Last Dress Boot Custom Configuration: $679
Borrowing the last from Nicks’ higher-finish Brandle line, the new 1925 nevertheless offers Nicks’ standard construction and lineup options, right on up to the fireproof V100 RedX. That includes cap or moc-toe options, a padded collar option, and a shaft height up to 10″. The only limit is quantity: Nicks is only making 50 pairs available, at least for now.
Red Wing Weekender Oxford in Chocolate Muleskinner: $260
Red Wing just revived their “weekender” collection: a line of lighter-weight, 360˚ stitchdown boots on the thin Hill wedge sole. There are three different heights available, ranging from a low cut derby in Chocolate Muleskinner or Copper Rough & Tough (all these work “oxfords”)…
Red Wing Weekender Chukka in White Sand Mohave: $270
…a mid-height, three eyelet chukka…
Red Wing Weekender Chelsea in Copper Rough and Tough: $260
…and a slightly taller Chelsea in the much-loved Copper Rough & Tough. For many Stitchdown readers, the lighter construction—which forgoes a still shank and uses a padded, synthetic footbed rather than leather—may be a point of hesitancy, but the Weekender collection also lowers the cost of entry for Red Wing’s heritage line, undercutting the Iron Ranger by around a hundred dollars and the classic moc by $50. Check out the whole weekender collection (six boots in total) here.
Sanders Riley in Mocha Reverse Suede: $387
Northampton shoemaker Sanders & Sanders has a new collection in dark, even Mocha reverse suede (with the maybe unnecessary “reverse” presumably referring to this being a roughout leather). The new models feature natural crepe outsoles and 360˚ storm welts. The Riley is the only boot of the bunch, with a steep taper from the instep to the slightly-sprung moc-toe…
Sanders Harry in Mocha Reverse Suede: $359
…but we also quite like the Harry Chukka, with its’ high eyelet placement and rounded shape. Check out the other models here.
Brick + Mortar x Alden “Riff” Longwing in Black JS Grain: $710
It’s been a while (read: too long) since we’ve had a longwing in the roundup, but Brick + Mortar is running a pre-order on a new Barrie last makeup in Black JS Grain. It shares its specs with a makeup available at Claymore Shop (here), which also serves as a useful visual for the combination of commando half-soles, 360˚ split reverse welt, and the JS grain uppers.
Pre-Owned Saint Crispin’s At Leffot: $420-890
Used shoes can be a bit of a mixed bag: at their best you can save hundreds of dollars on a basically new shoe, but at their worst you end up stuck with something that’s worn out or uncomfortable and heavily broken in to someone else’s feet. Rarely though, do you get images as high-quality as the ones provided by Leffot, or (if you live in New York) the chance to try them on before you buy them. The real standouts are the completely unworn pairs, particularly the 125 and 524, which offer the chance to try out a hand-welted, hand-lasted shoe made to a very high standard for around half what they would cost you directly from Saint Crispin’s.