Writing from the road this week, but we’re back with a small handful of ways to beat the heat (hint: remove the lining), the return of an archetypal White’s makeup from Franklin and Poe, and possibly the fanciest Biltbuck engineers ever.
Dive into the full roundup archive here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Brogue x Attractions Lot. 444 Studded Engineer in Black Horsebutt: $1,750
Larger than life boots for a larger than life person—maybe the main character of a platformer that platformed so hard they ended up in the real world. Glorious in their whimsy, but just as well-made as the rest of Attractions’ boots. The veg-tan uppers are studded by the Ace Western Belt Company, and then attached to the Biltbuck half soles using a 270˚ flat welt. Possibly has magical powers.
Franklin and Poe x White’s Service Boot 5050 in 8″ Black Chromexcel: $785
A rerun of the 2019 collaboration that’s now six (!) years old, these lean into a style that White’s does particularly well—hefty and PNW tough, but with a little more detail from the brogued cap toe and the stamp on the shafts. They’re built on the 5050 last using White’s handsewn stitchdown construction and commando half-soles.
Phigvel Aviator Zip Boots in Black: ~$714
These front-zip aviator boots from Phigvel—the Japanese brand that has made some excellent military derbies we quite love—landed a well deserved shoutout in Blackbird Spyplane this week. They’re built on Dainite, with a 270˚ flat welt and a center seam that follows the line of the zipper all the way down the toe. The uppers are fairly lightweight and clicked from black calfskin. As an aside, you can also find new old stock of pairs of milspec aviators with lace in zippers for less than a $100 on eBay—search for “B.F. Goodrich” who manufactured many of them. They’re definitely clunkier, but worth a look.
Division Road x Easymoc Bateau in Natural Chromexcel: $365
Division Road’s latest collaboration with Easymoc is a two-eyelet camp-shoe in natural CXL. The handsewn uppers are unlined, but sit atop a pretty substantial wedge sole in the form of a brown Vibram 2062. Basically, Easymoc’s bread and butter: a literally and metaphorically flexible kick-around shoe with a little extra substance.
Grant Stone Unlined Traveler Penny in Sand Suede: $395
In much of the northern hemisphere it is—as you may have noticed—extremely hot outside, hot enough that even a regular loafer might have you sweating a little bit. The next step is to shed the lining, which Grant Stone has done on a trio of new unlined-vamp Travelers in as many shades of suede: sand…
Grant Stone Unlined Traveler Penny in Bitter Chocolate Suede: $395
…bitter chocolate…
Grant Stone Unlined Traveler Penny in Black Suede: $395
…and black. All three have 360˚ flat welts and oil dipped leather outsoles.
Crown Northampton Harlestone Derby in Green Horween Shell Cordovan: $865
Horween’s green shell cordovan is a deliciously dark color that looks great against the cream laces and Lactae Hevea soles of Crown’s Harlestone. To editorialize a little here: if you’re thinking about these, skip the black and brown sole options—the off white just looks too good. Like many of Crown’s recent shell drops, this release is limited to 25 pairs.
Wesco x Brooklyn Clothing Custom Hendrik in Black Teacore Horsehide: $929
Brooklyn Clothing is following up their recent Chromexcel Hendrik makeups with a pair of new versions in teacore horsehide. They share the same double-row stitchdown construction, Vibram 269 outsoles, and MP95 last. Available in black, with speedhooks…
Wesco x Brooklyn Clothing Custom Hendrik in Brown Teacore Horsehide: $929
…or brown, in an all eyelet configuration.
Alden All Weather Walker in Brown Alpine Grain: $715
The Alden All-Weather Walker isn’t new-new, but it’s not always available. A chunky outsole and a prominent welt are, in our estimation, high on the list of shoe virtues—and the crepe soles and 360˚ split reverse welts here definitely fulfill. The uppers use Alden’s blucher pattern, clicked from Brown Alpine grain.
The Armoury Spenser Plain-Toe Blucher in Plough Suede: $600
NYC uber-shop The Armoury has a new blucher from their house line of their shoes, designed with input from Simon Bolzoni of the bespoke shoemaker Canons (the extent of which is a little unclear). They’re constructed with a 360˚ storm welt and Dainite outsoles, with uppers available in either suede…
The Armoury Spenser Plain-Toe Blucher in Dark Brown Grain Calf: $600
…or a darker calf. White background product photos can sometimes make pebbled-grain leathers look awkward or straight up dorky. As the editorial photos on the Armoiry’s instagram show, that’s less of a problem when they’re surrounded by other textures—which is always, unless you regularly commute through all-white purgatory. There’s something to these.
Leffot x Alden Williamsburg in Arabica Lux and Humus Suede: $718
In the Aldenscape, two-tone is usually the domain of statement-strap loafers or very rare spectator style makeups, and the subtler rough over smooth setup on these Williamsburg’s has us thinking that’s a shame. This quarter style also makes the combo look natural, avoiding the assembly line accident look that perennially haunts two-tone boots. They have brass hardware—with three speedhooks spaced more widely than usual for Alden—a 360˚ split reverse welt, and a wedge sole, all of which are put together on the Barrie last.
Parkhurst Allen in Asfalto Vachetta Horsebutt: $528
Parkhurst just dropped 90 new boots under the cheeky header “a few new items”. Of all 90 boots, we’re covering the Asphalto version of the plain-toe Allen becasue of the fine, even figuring dappling both boots. While we can promise that your boots won’t look exactly like these, it’s a testament to Parkhust’s clicking that these two are so evenly matched in as variable a leather as this. Beneath the uppers, there’s a 360˚ split welt and a commando sole.
Parkhurst Richmond in Dachshund Rambler: $398
The other thing we’re excited for in this drop is wide widths. By default, producing nine-ish or more sizes of a given model adds to setup costs and makes inventory harder to sell—that’s just inherent to the shoe business. Producing twice as many variations of each model in order to offer wide widths can be a risky proposition, so it’s always nice to see brands that are willing to accept that cost in order to offer a better fit. This run of wide widths is being offered on the Richmond last in a variety of leathers, and all the makeups have 360˚ split welts and commando soles. There are tons more boots in the drop, from stitchdown boots to the new sprung toed Allegheny model, so check them out here if you’re interested.
Old House Provisions x Alden Leisure Penny Loafer in Brown JS Grain: $692 (Pre-Order)
Old House Provisions’ footwear section has been steadily growing (Drew, the owner, is a bespoke shoemaker himself—so not surprising), with an open Alden pre-order and a small collection of new Edward Green models. The loafer makeup has a gullwing cutout on the strap in place of Alden’s usual half elipse. They’re configured with a machine sewn vamp on Brown JS grain uppers, which is attached to the rubber outsole by a 360˚ flat welt. For nonstandard sizes, shoot them an email.
Edward Green Shanklin in Mink Suede: $1,250
The unlined version Edward Green’s Shanklin Chukka is quite possibly the lightest thing that qualifies as a boot. This version is rubber soled, and built on the almond toed 202 last, with a 270˚ flat welt that’s fudged and trimmed close.
Edward Green Piccadilly in Mink Suede: $1,595
The Piccadilly uses the same unlined Mink suede and construction as the Shanklin, but subs out the rubber sole for leather.
Edward Green Belgravia in Dark Oak Antique Calfskin: $1,690
In contrast, the Belgravia is both more structured and more dramatic, with a full lining and the braided lace both decorating and reinforcing the mouth. There’s a light patina on the heel and toe, and they share the sole stack and 184 last with the Piccadilly.
John Lobb Tide in Bruinn Nubuck: $1,890
John Lobb just released a new boat shoe model, and while the price is likely to have a measurable effect on your heart-rate, we have to admit that the patterning here is dead on. Plus, we’ve always had a soft spot for the lug sole and storm welt combo to beef up an otherwise light shoe, and these check that box. Available in Bruinn Nubuck…
John Lobb Tide in Black Dew Hide: $1,890
…and Black “Dew Hide”.
Oak Street Bootmakers Storm Boot in Natural Chromexcel Roughout: $324 (Sale)
Oak Street’s Storm boots are currently listed at 50% off. For that price, the specs—V-bar outsoles, double row stitchdown construction, and Chromexcel uppers—are impressive, especially on a solidly built boot that’s available in stock. Also available in (grain side) Natural Chromexcel, Brown Chromexcel, and Black Chromexcel.