If you’re on the east cost and enjoying the cold snap, I recommend reading this article the way I wrote it, cozied up with your laptop like the sleeptime tea bear.
Stay tuned for a brand new model from White’s, a Northamptonshire collaboration that broke out into the halls of hype, some puddle stompin’ Aldens, and more, in this weeks Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week.
White’s new model expands the build developed for the C350-CS to a lace to toe upper. That construction utilizes a double midsole under the heel and builds up additional internal lift to make the high-arched 55 last compatible with a 2021 wedge sole, which normally couldn’t be cemented to such a curvy last. The construction is White’s newer (but still formidable…and more affordable) machine stitchdown, with a nickel, all-eyelet hardware configuration. They’re available in a variety of White’s leathers, including British Tan Double Shot…
…and Cinnamon Waxed Flesh. While you might be find your size and leather of choice in stock (if you’re lucky), it’s more likely that you’ll wait 8-10 to have them made to order.
Of all of Northamptonshire’s shoemaker’s, Tricker’s might hold the title for the most just-going-for-it collaborations. Their recent collection for Burberry has produced a new brogue pattern, the Devon, which remixed classic country-shoe elements like the brougeing, medallion, and almond toed last, with fashion forward modifications like a redesigned swooping toe cap, exaggerated tongue, and bright blue lining leather. The 360˚ split-welt, leather midsole, and made-in-England commando outsole are all dyed black. The three Devon models sport uppers in Black…
…as well as the more experimental Vine…
…and Aubergine calfskin.
In addition to brogues, the Burberry x Tricker’s release includes a blacked out Chelsea boot on the same split welt and commando sole. The pattern has a low and forward leaning silhouette, somewhere between a Romeo and a true 6″ Chelsea, with cloth pull tabs on the backstay and the top of the Vamp.
It’s factory pre-order season at Rolling Dub Trio, and Standard and Strange is accepting pre-orders on a huge range models for delivery in late 2024 or early 2025—but it ends today, Friday 11/3. The Forester Low II is one of the most intricate works to come out of The Boots Factory (RDT’s production wing). They’re Norwegian welted, on a hybrid treaded wedge from Vibram, and lest anyone call them underbuilt, the black Chromexcel uppers have a (brogued and pinked) true cap toe, a fully gusseted tongue, a kiltie, and contrast French bound tops. It’s a maximalist approach to bootmaking that’s downright brazen to put on a shoe chassis. Needless to say, we love it.
There are RDT classics on pre-order offer as well. Three days post-Halloween we’d be remiss not to mention the Casper, a nearly whole-cut side zip boot with upper clicked (in this case) from Black Chromexcel. The sole is nitrile cork under the forefoot, but transitions to leather at the to permit the attachment of a toe tap. A 360˚ flat welt holdS it all together.
The last model we’re highlighting is a modification of the Coupen boot-shoe. (See a pattern here? Pun probably not intended). The Coupen Low Moc is, at risk of bludgeoning the point, a Coupen with a moc toe stitch seen here in an ultra-shiny teacore horsehide. It has the same cork/leather/toe-tap outsole combo and flat welt as the Casper, and everything from the hardware to the midsole is black, though a little brown peeks through the edge finishing at the welt and sole, creating a worn-in look.
Two chukkas from Paraboot’s long running collab with Arpenteur are currently available at Lost & Found. The pattern preserves Paraboot’s signature rubber outsole and pinked welt, but on a swooping minimalist upper with three eyelets, decorated only with a raised lake apron stitch. They’re on offer in two Nubuck colorways: Marron…
Alden might be known for being an east coast prep staple, but they can certainly do rugged. Case in point, Modified last icon Moulded Shoe’s D8816h, which is as utilitarian as it sounds (and wears it well). It’s built around the Modified last and a lugged unit outsole and a 270˚ storm welt, with a five-eyelet/four speedhook hardware combo and bound facings.
For their latest release, Oak Street overdyed a batch of Horween Chromexcel with the ur-pigment, iron oxide, one of the oldest dyes known to archeology. The result is a grey that’s varied and hard to describe, paired with antiqued leather eyelets and flat welted on a low-to-the ground Christy wedge and a thin veg-tan midsole.
Thursday has gotten a lot of feet in the door as far as quality footwear is concerned, and as we round out (m)October and enter The Trudging Season™, they’ve put out a lug soled version of the Diplomat Moc Toe. The last is relatively sleek, with a low profile toe counterbalanced by the apron stitch and 360˚ storm welt. A trio of leathers our offered, with our preference leaning towards the brown chrome tannage shown here. While the insole is made of poron, it sits atop cork fill and a steel shank, as well as the lugged, Thursday-branded outsole.