Shoes 'n' Boots of the Week: Waxed Flesh White's at DR, Gallun Shrunken Calf at Grant Stone, and More

Seems like the heat has every city slicker longing for sagebrush and open skies… and then deferring that longing in favor of a pair of ropers or a some serious cowboy heels. If that’s you, we’ve got some brand new western boots with Horween-tanned uppers—and if it’s not, stick around for Crown Northamptons new handwelted sneaker, Grant Stone’s latest preorder, and plenty more.

Oh yeah, and check out all our previous roundups here.

[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]

Division Road x White’s Boots 350 Crusier in Horween Black Waxed Flesh: $825

Virginia’s Division Road does Horween Waxed Flesh White’s Boots as well as any—and they sure know how to wield a cavity wedge as well. These 350 Crusiers on the 55 last and a Vibram 2060 sole sport all eyelets and are tolerating zero nonsense.

Division Road x White’s Boots 350 Crusier in Horween Brown Waxed Flesh: $825

They also come in brown Waxed Flesh!

Division Road x White’s Boots Semi Dress 375 in Horween Cinnamon Waxed Flesh: $825

Cinnamon Waxed Flesh is both well-known and slept on all at once—and it looks perfect here on the Division Road-exclusive 7-inch 375 Semi-Dress with a block heel and half-sole, plus alllll the eyelets.

Division Road x White’s Boots Semi Dress 375 in Horween Black Waxed Flesh: $825

And then of course we’ve got a restock of the original DR talboy Semi Dress—a black Waxed Flesh version with the same specs as the cinnamon model.

Crown Northampton Ernest Wholecut in London Tan Oak Bark Tanned Calf: $1,517 (Made to Order)

We just did a deep dive on Crown Northampton’s attempt to make what might legitimately be called the worlds best sneaker. In a few sentences: they’re handwelted using a new construction where two strips of leather, not just one, are sewn to the channeled insole, and then the welt is sewn perpendicular to the outsole using a special curved needle stitch. Leather components, including those calfskin uppers, are oak bark tanned by legendary UK outfit J&FJ Baker, while the outsole is a custom formulation developed by Lactae Hevea to suit the unique challenges of this construction. The heavily shaped lasts, the wholecut uppers with seamless heels—everything is carefully thought out. They’re available in London Tan…

Crown Northampton Ernest Wholecut in Black Oak Bark Tanned Calf: $1,517 (Made to Order)

…and Black, as well as brown and natural.

Grant Stone Diesel Boot in Mahogany Shrunken Calf: $435 (Pre-Order)

Many tannages shrink as a result of their drying method, but the sort of heavy, grain inducing shrinkage Gallun applies to this calf is usually reserved for bison or other soft game leathers. Applying it to calf produces a unique result—an extra dense hide with an evenly textured surface. It makes a lot of sense with Grant Stone’s Diesel Boot. Both straddle the line between dressy and casual, but remain quite solid indeed. This preorder makeup uses a 360˚ flat welt and a micro-stud outsole.

Grant Stone Baroda Boot in Mahogany Shrunken Calf: $435 (Pre-order)

The Baroda trades out the Leo last for the high-walled Floyd, and following that more casual turn it uses a 360˚ storm welt. Black edge finishing contrasts with the upper and makes the micro stud sole look a little blockier by disguising the transition into the midsole.

Pearl Boot Company Roper Heel in Natural Derby: $498

Pearl Boot Company is the unfamiliar name of a familiar face: Justin James. He ran the resolable sneaker brand Opie Way until hurricane Helene tore through Asheville, destroying their factory, which Justin and Ben documented on a Shoecast episode.

Now he’s back with made-in-USA cowboy boots out of great Horween leathers. It’s a hell of a comeback. The new Roper Heel model is exactly what it sounds like, a Roper pattern that takes the toe shape and pattern from their Round Toe cowboy boot, and puts it on a slightly more approachable block heel. They’re constructed with a 270˚ flat welt on a leather outsole, though the (leather topped) insoles are Poron. So far, there are two leather offering: the Roper Heel comes in Horween Derby, a soft, tumbled veg-tan with loads of patina potential…

Pearl Boot Company in Brown Kudu Chromexcel: $498

…while the Round Toe with it’s more substantial heel is now available in Brown Kudu Chromexcel (which his not actual kudu!), as well as natural and black derby. We wouldn’t be surprised if those options made their way onto the roper soon, but only time will tell.

JK Boots Forefront in Coyote Roughout: $549 (Made to Order)

JK is not kidding about the trio of limited run boots released this week in Coyote Roughout. It’s available on the 6″ Vibram Christy equipped forefront…

JK Boots O.T. in Coyote Rougout: $575 (Made to Order)

…as well as the 8″ O.T., with its Honey Lug unit sole. Both use a 360˚ stitchdown construction and super heavy, 8-9oz. oil tanned uppers.

Brick + Mortar x Alden “Uptown” in Color 8 Shell Cordovan: $975

Brick + Mortar’s “Uptown” makeup is classic Alden. Shell cordovan uppers in Color 8 are combined with a simple cap-toe pattern on the Barrie last. Underfoot, a double waterlock leather outsole is attached using a 360˚ split-reverse welt, with the edges finished in Alden’s red-brown “antique” color.

Unmarked Archie Boot in Horween Essex Tan: $430

Franklin & Poe has been steadily picking up new brands over the last few months. The latest new partnership is with Unmarked, and while the Leon, Mexico bootmaker has been expanding, this is the first time they’ll be available in stock stateside. That means less wait, less sizing risk, and the chance to try them on if you’re near Philly. The model of choice is the Archie, a roofer-style lace-to-toe with veg-tan uppers in Horween’s Essex. Constructed with a 360˚ flat welt, the Vibram half soles play up the round, sprung toe silhouette.

Brogue x Alden Tanker Boot in Cognac: $755

This Cognac Calf version of the Tanker Boot has a handsewn split toe and contrasting hardware in polished brass. A 360˚ flat welt secures the commando half soles, and they’re lasted on the Barrie last. All in all, trim, but ready for action.

Easymoc Rambler in Coach Waxed Elk: $575

Rugged, with complex, detailed uppers and serious Vibram lug soles. This is the “hard” side of Easymoc, and some of our favorite stuff they produce. Case in point, there are three different weights of stitching on the upper: the light detail stitching you’ll find on most pattern pieces, the heavier line of stitching securing the quarters, and finally the handsewn plug and heel stitching. Most of the upper is waxed elk, but there are two other leathers used on the collar binding and backstay. This sort of patterning can easily tip over into utter chaos, but Easymoc knows what they’re doing.

Easymoc Rambler in Toffee Crazy Horse: $415

They’re also offering a slightly calmer and cushier version in Toffee Crazy horse, biggest switch being the Vibram 2062 wedge sole.

Thursday Boots Roadrunner in Sahara Suede: $180

There’s an abundance of desert boot options out there, and endless Tyrolean shoes these days. But until very recently you’d be hard pressed to find a high quality Wallabee-style hybrid of the two. Thursday’s new Roadrunner is exactly that. The suede uppers are leather lined, and sit atop a veg-tan midsole and a huge slab of crepe. Of course, there’s a 360˚ stitchdown construction, and they’re available in a ton of colors, but Sahara…

Thursday Boots Roadrunner in Sand Suede: $180

…and Sand suede are probably the favorites.

Rancourt Cup Sole Penny Moc in Natural:$298 (Made to Order)

Rancourt’s penny loafer pattern is now available with a Reltex cup sole—a super low profile option with a little bit of extra squish. We expect these to be resolable—cut the stitches, pull off the cup sole, replace with the assistance of a sidewall stitcher—but we haven’t heard for sure just yet. Unlined and currently available in Natural…