Turns out Spring means suede! This time around we’ve got as many Viberg releases as we can remember, Rancourt’s new khaki collection, Alden loafers (and a history lesson) from Brogue, Oak Streets, and more, in the latest: Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week!

Metaroundup? Check! Find all the Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the week here.

[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]

Division Road x Viberg - Rockland Blucher - Janus Calf Suede

Division Road x Viberg Rockland Blucher in Tobacco Janus Calf Suede: $865

This Rockland Blucher at DR feels straightforward, but the goods are definitely in the details—which include both what it does have (top-end C.F. Janus calf suede uppers, a comfy Lactae Hevea sole) and what it doesn’t (eyelets, toe structure, and lining). This shoe should prove lightweight and flexible, but still sturdy thanks to Viberg’s channeled insole Goodyear welt construction  The Rockland model is lasted on the round toed 1035, rather than the more common (almond toed) 2030. Really cool shoe here.

Division Road x Viberg - 2030 Service Boot - Janus Calf Suede

Division Road x Viberg Service Boot 2030 in Tobacco Janus Calf Suede: $985

DR’s latest Service Boot sticks to the classic 2030 last, paired with a perforated cap toe (a relatively subtle detail on the suede), bound facings, and nine relatively fine eyelets, this time stitched down to a midsole edge-dyed medium brown and to the same natural crepe sole from Lactae Hevea. This one’s unlined too!

Viberg - Service Boot 310 - Mushroom Chamois

Viberg Service Boot 310 in Mushroom Reverse Chamois: $880

If you like Viberg, and you like suede/roughout/nappy leathers, this is a good week for you. Viberg’s own limited release models are two Service Boots in two shades of Horween reverse Chamois, the first a 310 Service Boot in mushroom. It features the standard double row stitchdown construction on a Dainite sole, with eight olive-toned eyelets.

Viberg - Service Boot 1035 - Tobbacco Chamois

Viberg Service Boot 1035 in Tobbacco Reverse Chamois: $880

The second model to drop was a 1035 Service Boot (also stitchdown, also on Dainite) in tobacco reverse Chamois, with a perforated cap toe. The oily nature of the tannage comes through strongly here, producing some significant but muted color variation which generally follows the contours of the last.

Division Road x Viberg - Service Boot - Tobbacco Janus Calf Suede

Brooklyn Clothing x Viberg Service Boot 2040 in Golden Brown Roughout: $880

As part of their ongoing series of 35th (!) anniversary releases (yes, I will continue putting that in italics), Brooklyn Clothing released one roughout and one grain-side Service Boot, both in Horween’s strongly textured Golden Brown Predator. The first of the duo is the roughout, cap-toed, 2040 pair, with the heavily waxed tannage producing a very high contrast upper that almost looks like worn waxed flesh. Besides the contrast tongues (which are flipped grain-out), the boots feature a 270˚ double row stitchdown construction and Dainite outsoles.

Brooklyn Clothing x Viberg - Service Boot 2030 - Golden Brown Predator

Brooklyn Clothing x Viberg 2030 Service Boot in Horween Brown Predator: $880

Its sibling model, with a the more muted texture of grain-side Predator, the sleeker 2030 last, and a perforated cap toe, offers a more buttoned up take on the concepts, with finer eyelet to boot. Beneath the upper however, the setup is the same, with two rows of stitchdown and a Dainite sole.

Rancourt - Harrison Boot Redux - Khaki Orion Fleshout

Rancourt Harrison Boot Redux in Khaki Orion Fleshout: $378

Rancourt recently built out a greatest-hits-list group of patterns in Khaki Orion Fleshout, a waterproof roughout leather tanned by Horween. Harrison Redux is a 6″ handsewn boot on the 2592 last, their widest and longest toe. The uppers are stitched to a veg-tan midsole which is then cemented to a Vibram Christy outsole.

Rancourt - Gilman Camp Moc - Khaki Orion Fleshout

Rancourt Gilman Camp-Moc in Khaki Orion Fleshout: $288

The camp moc takes things in the opposite direction, light an unlined, with thin camp sole, and lasted on the 800, Rancourt’s moderate-bulk last.

Rancourt - Beefroll Penny Loafers - Khaki Orion Fleshout

Rancourt Beefroll Penny Loafers in Khaki Orion Fleshout: $328

Finally, the middle ground: Rancourt’s handsewn beefroll penny, with oiled leather outsoles and a rubber heel tap. We’ve also completed our journey through Rancourt’s last library with the 114, a round toed but narrower last for models designed to gel with tailoring. Hard to get this much shoe for this price anywhere.

Oak Street Bootmakers - Trench Oxford - Aged Bark Cheiftain Roughout

Oak Street Bootmakers Trench Oxford in Aged Bark Cheiftan Roughout: $478

This week’s OSB Trench Oxford is billed as a summer-weight model in light (but water resistant) Seidel roughout, 360˚ flat welted to the wedge sole of choice this week, Vibram 2060.

Oak Street Bootmakers - Field Boot - Aged Bark Cheiftan

Oak Street Bootmakers Field Boot in Aged Bark Cheiftan Roughout: $488

But summer doesn’t mean you can’t wear boots! And hell it isn’t quite summer yet anyways, so here’s also a Field Boot makeup with the same specs: 360˚ flat welt, Vibram 2060, and Seidel Roughout, with a grain-out tongue.

Leffot x Alden - V-Tip Boot - Black Shell Cordovan

Leffot x Alden V-Tip Boot in Black Shell Cordovan: $935

Here’s a release that’s simultaneously full of classic Alden DNA and brand new to Leffot (also true of the next pair in our roundup). It’s a V-Tip boot on the 379x last, murdered out except for five eyelets and four speedhooks in polished brass, with chunky crepe sole and black shell cordovan uppers, on a 360˚ split welt. Released alongside them…

Leffot x Alden - Indy Boot - Snuff Suede

Leffot x Alden Indy Boot in Snuff Suede: $695

…we have a summery Suede Indy (in Snuff Suede, to be specific), with a 270˚ storm welt, an oiled single leather sole, and a Foot Balance heel.

Brogue x Alden - Original Tassel Moccasin - Black Shell Cordovan

Brogue x Alden Original Tassel Moccasin in Black Shell Cordovan: $885

It’s worth checking out the product page for these even if you’re not shopping for anything, because Brouge slipped a pretty thorough account of the advent of the Alden tassel loafer into the product description. The specs here are identical to the original 50’s models, with 270˚ flat welt and a single leather sole. They’re available in black shell cordovan (with a blacked out sole and heel)…

Brogue x Alden - Original Tassel Moccasin - Color 8 Shell Cordovan

Brogue x Alden Original Tassel Moccasin in Color 8 Shell Cordovan: $885

…and in Color 8 Shell cordovan, with matching edge dye.

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