After our conspicuous absence last week, we’re back in the game! Today roundup features a Dome-worthy double feature of White’s at Division Road, a new Rolling Dub Trio Model at East West Apparel, calf Vibergs at Brooklyn Clothing, and a whole lot more.
Previous Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week are available for your viewing pleasure here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
DR brought this one back out of the vault: C.F. Stead’s Rosewood Unicorn leather on the 5050 last, a hybrid of the 55 and MP lasts which maintains the heel height and arch support of the 55 last but shares the sleeker toe of the MP. This build uses White’s single row hand-sewn rolled welt and a commando half sole and heel combo.
The second revived MP Sherman is on the Northwest last, a low-arch last that accommodates wedge soles such as the Vibram Christy that makes an appearance here. The construction is once again White’s traditional rolled welt, also single row, while the leather is Stead’s Flint Waxed Kudu, a heavily marked combo-tanned, aniline dyed leather from the hide of the eponymous African animal.
VERY GOOD PATINA THUNDERDOME BOOTS ALERT (plz ignore if you don’t want a shot at over $40,000 in prizes just for wearing boots).
The black Waxed Flesh Cruiser model isn’t shy about its chonk, placing the classic White’s pattern on a Vibram 2060 wedge sole. The gusseted tongue and rolled welt in natural Chromexcel make for a subtle two-tone look and an even visual transition from the sand sole to the black upper, and thanks to construction developments pioneered on previous collaborations, the boot is constructed on the high-arched 55 last, which was once inadvisable with a wedge sole.
On the other hand, the LTT Lineman’s sole is a low-profile Vibram 430, and even the generally chonky lace-to-toe pattern (with a linsman’s patch!) is sleeked out by an unstructured toebox that will collapse naturally for what we think is one of the coolest LTT silhouettes anywhere. The handsewn stitchdown construction is single row and the 55 lasted pattern is all eyelets—no speedhooks in sight, only brass hardware and olive Waxed Flesh.
The Loro has been RDT’s traditional western-style pull on boot, but this season it’s been given a serious contemporary reworking. The Loro Zip Flame is a thoroughly adorned side zip boot with classically western last proportions and a slight Munson influence. In addition to the toe bug, there’s an inverted, five-color flame design stitched into the shaft. The rubber Vibram 269 outsole tapers strongly towards the waist of the boot contributing to what is on whole a very curvy design. The Loro Zip Flame is available at East West Apparel at the moment, as are several other RDT models.
One of those is the Casper, another zip boot this time based loosely on RDTs Coupen models, sharing their 360-degree flat welt, toe tap, nitrile cork sole, and Cat’s Paw heel. The boots’ most distinctive feature is the essentially wholecut upper (there are only two pieces, one is the backstay) which drapes and folds like (if I may) the sheet on a ghost. They’re currently available in both black and brown horse front…
…while the same leather options currently available for the Coupen itself. This mid-height bootshoe was one of the first Rolling Dub Trio models stocked at East West Apparel, and they have since received many runs, restocks, and leather swaps. The heel, sole, and welt configuration are all identical to the Casper, but the pattern sits somewhere between a Pacific Northwest style work “oxford” and a 6″ service boot.
While we’re still waiting for Viberg’s AW23 refined collection, Brooklyn Clothing is giving us a taste of the sort of thing it might contain. A Viberg model is officially fancy when the edge of the quarter panels and the top of the shaft are French-bound instead of left raw, and the the French Calfskin upper from d’Annonay doesn’t hurt either.
The Fishing Oxford, in all its various vamped-out forms, is among our favorite Russell models (we’re actually in the process of cooking up a few makeups with the 125-year-old Wisconsin icon ourselves…)—which makes it all the more exciting to see after a long hiatus. This model is the Fishing Oxford in its purest single-vamp construction state, with lined Oxblood Horween CXL, a double-stack midsole, and a capable, forgiving Vibram Aspen Gumlite unit sole.
Russell Moccasin’s Safari is the latest addition to their new Premier Build line, which offers accelerated lead times on several standard models. The Safari is a hot weather boot which uses Red Maple Oil Tan leather on the moccasins vamp and plug, but is cut away in two panels at the shaft filled in with brown cotton twill for ventilation. As has become increasingly common at Russell, the outsole is a natural rubber Lactae Hevea wedge. Just a fantastic all-around boot with exceptional comfort.
Buffalo-based Parkhurst has continued tweaking their lasts and patterns over the years, and effort that’s culminating in this seasons AW23 collection release. While many of the boots look like Parkhurst classics, we’re told they should have a slightly softer on-foot feel than older Parkhurst boots, and feature a little more room for heavyweight socks. The Niagara is Parkhurst’s on a moc-toe casual boot. The leather is a combination tannage developed with Parkhurst’s Italian partner tannery, and the sole is a proprietary rubber studded sole. The updated pattern features bound edges on the quarter panel and fudging on the split welt, nice details for the price and neatly executed. You can check out the rest of their release here.
Alongside the new collection, Parkhurst has released a variety of one-off factory samples and seconds, like this brouged cap toe Delaware in Seidel Double Shot, with the same construction and sole setup and the Niagra above. The sale is a chance to get your hands on a one off model or save some money if you happen to get lucky with sizing.
“Crazy Horse” style leathers have become a mainstay in the boot world and beyond, but we rarely get to see whats beneath the surface. Oak Street’s release has answered that question for us, and the answer according to this Cap-Toe Lakeshore release, is nap, which Oak Street has kindly waxed at the toe and heel for some visual variation. Otherwise, the Dainite sole and 360-degree split welt are Oak Street classics which also mark a break from the prior streak of flat-welted Limited Edition releases.
Wooten is making their second-ever roundup appearance this week to mark the release of their first-ever in- stock Chelsea boot. Chelsea’s are as Aussie as Wooten themselves, but they’re taking things a step further with this release’s use of a Victorian Bovine upper tanned in Australia, from Australian hides, plus rubber soles produced by a local, South Australian factory. They utilize Wooten’s McKay welt construction in which the upper is tucked under the insole and both are attached to the midsole by a stitch in the footbed before the midsole itself is stitched to the outsole around the outside of the vamp, producing an appearance much like a Goodyear welt. Don’t sleep on this construction!
Alden has teamed up with the repair extraordinaries at LaRossa Shoe in Massachusetts for a Trubalance Indy collaboration in Papaya Pegasus, a slightly lustrous smooth grained calf, paired with a double oak leather sole, 360-degree split reverse welt, and all eyelets, all the way up.
Another long-in-the-making all-eyelet Alden drops today at Dashing Chicago, a split toe tanker boot in snuff suede on the Barrie last. Brass eyelets and a commando sole build out the model, in addition to a split reverse welt. Three way collaborations like this (Paul of “Angler Paul” is both a friend and a Dashing client), are part of the reason we love independent stores, which can achievea kind of community integration that’s impossible elsewhere.