Embattled by the unbelievably humid mid-Atlantic summer, we’ve had plenty of time (indoors) to scour this week’s releases—it’s a good one. We’ve a new Division Road x White’s release, Nicks is using Hermann Oak leathers for the first time, Grant Stone is holding on to some ready-to-wear shell, and the new brand Axen has some dressy-leaning Chelseas in C.F. Stead suede at a price that’s pretty hard to argue with.
Lots more below as well…
Check out all our past roundups here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Division Road x White’s LTT Cutter 350 in Black Waxed Flesh and Natural Chromexcel: $885
This is what Division Road x White’s is all about: chunky lace-to-toe, natural Chromexcel quarters over black waxed flesh vamps—but with a natural core that will soften up the two-tone effect over time. The construction is White’s handsewn stitchdown, but the single row of stitching and the fact that the wedge is Christy rather than the bulkier 2060 keeps these a bit lower profile and closer to the ground. Built to an E width on the Northwest last.
Nicks Lace Up in Racetracked London Tan English Bridle: $844 (Made to Order)
Hermann Oak leathers are officially available at Nicks! The 145-year old tannery is nearly ubiquitous in the equestrian leather world, and almost as common on small leather goods for the simple reason that their veg-tans are extremely consistent and extremely nice. We’re excited to see how they age when really put through their paces—literally—on a pair of boots. So far, the options are Racetracked English Bridle, a vegetable tannage with a strong pull up that hot-stuffed and hot dipped to pack it full of waxes and oils…
Nicks Lace Up in Oak Chestnut Harness: $844 (Made to Order)
…or Chestnut Harness, which is packed with slightly lower melting point oils and tallows that leave it slightly softer. Both are available on all of Nicks’ custom configuration boots.
Freenote Cloth x Viberg Service Boot 2055 in Brown Chromexcel: $1,080
Viberg is exploring a ton of new territory right now, which means its often collaborations that are delivering the staples—that’s why these partnerships are symbiotic. Freenote Cloth is absolutely filling that role right now, with two new stitchdown makeups in Chromexcel. The lighter of the two is a Service Boot on the 2055 last, a round toe last that should fit similar to the 2030, but with a little extra space. It has brown CXL uppers with blind eyelets and a Dainite sole…
Freenote Cloth x Viberg Service Boot 2045 in Black Chromexcel: $1,080
…while the other boot uses black CXL that’s struck through (meaning the leather will remain black as it scuffs and wears), with Dr. Sole Supergrip half soles. It’s lasted on Viberg’s 2045, an somewhat anatomical last with a with an asymmetrical toe shape that mirrors the foot and bump toe for a little extra vertical space. It’s a pretty imposing boot, and the bump toe can look a little severe in side-on shots. But it’s just right when they’re on the ground and you’re looking at them from eye level.
Grant Stone Edward Boot in Maduro Shell Cordovan: $845
There are exactly eight pairs of ready-to-ship Maduro Shell Edward Boots on the Grant Stone site at the moment, including quite a few E widths. They have a 360˚ split welt and micro-stud outsoles. The whole build, right down to the plain toe and Leo last, pretty much stays out of the shell’s way as much as possible, letting it do it’s brown-green thing. Can’t ask much more than that.
Grant Stone Traveler Penny in Dune Chromexcel: $412
Plus, three core leathers just got restocked on the Traveler Penny: Dune Chromexcel, the darker Crimson Chromexcel…
Grant Stone Traveler Penny in Bourbon Suede: $395
…and Bourbon suede, all with leather soles and 360˚ flat welts.
John Lofgren Wabash Engineer in Burgundy Ezo Shika Deerskin: $1,450
Meanwhile, Franklin & Poe just can’t stop pulling boots out of the harbor. They have a bunch of new western boots from Unmarked, a collab Huarache, and tons of new Lofgrens. On the Lofgren side, there are Engineers (Burnt Burgundy)…
John Lofgren Wabash Donkey Puncher in Dark Brown Ezo Shika Deerskin: $1,450
…and Donkey Punchers (Burnt Dark Brown) in Ezo Shika Deerskin, both of which have 270˚ storm welts and Dr. Sole Half Soles…
John Lofgren Duke Roper in Roughout Natural Chromexcel: $1,450
…as well as ropers in roughout Chromexcel, this time with a storm welt and Vibram Westerners.
Unmarked Durango V5 Mephisto in Kidskin and Pullup: $890
The Durango V5s are a favorite—inlaid kidskin shafts, plenty of heel, and a Vibram Westerner outsole secured with 270˚ of stitching and lots of brass tacks.
Franklin & Poe x Unmarked Huarache Balam in Natural Veg-tan: $450
As for the Franklin & Poe exclusive Balam, the uppers are very densely woven veg-tan, and they’ve snuck a pair of leather midsoles and Vibram Mini Ripples underneath the 270˚ flat welt. Check out the full release here.
Truman Plain Toe in Coach Rambler: $480
We haven’t seen quite as much C.F. Stead Rambler since Peak Textured Leather in 2024, but this is boots and the trend cycle has much more to do with what a small group of enthusiastic people are getting excited about than financial food chain of the larger apparel sphere. Which is just to say that if a tannage is cool then someone is bound to be running it at any given time. And right now that someone is Truman, who just released a plain toe boot in Rambler on their Casual last, with a 360˚ flat welt and a lug sole.
FEIT Latex Low Top in Tan Suede: $450 (Pre-order)
These teddy bears from FEIT have veg-tan suede uppers and Lactae Hevea cup soles, all put together in Italy. They’re expected to ship on July 15th.
Axen Shoemaker Chelsea Boot in Dark Brown Suede: $263
While Sons of Henrey—who made some dialed-in split toes, loafers, and dressy-leaning boots around the $300 mark—are temporarily on pause because looking for a factory, there’s a new member of the Sons of Henrey/Oct Tenth cinematic universe: Axen.
We haven’t had the chance to handle them yet, but on first expression, they’re cleanly executed standards in well known materials. They have almond-toed penny loafer in C.F. Stead suede, with Vibram Eton outsoles and a fudged 270˚ flat welt…
Axen Penny Loafer in Black Calf: $263
…a Penny Loafer in French calf with same sole stack, and about a half-dozen other model ranging in formality from an oxford (with a pretty unique upper) to a two-toned “Winter Boot” on a lug sole. Pricing is, in the brand’s own words, aggressive—possible in part because their factory is in Shanghai.
At this point, there’s no question that Chinese manufacturers are putting out excellent boots. Think Grant Stone, Arch Support Project, Meermin, or Oct Tenth themselves. To find out whether Axen belongs to that category, we’ll have to get our hands on these things.
Meermin SWAY Deck Shoe in Brown Waxy Calf: $230
Love them or hate them, the deck shoe has been slowly building a menswear hegemony for a while now, but too many—especially at this price point—tend to use a cemented construction. Meermin’s angle attack of attack on this very saturated niche is to release a welted version, with a 360˚ flat welt and a veg-tan insole. Like the rest of Meermin’s line, it’s a clean pattern in nice materials for an extremely reasonable price. The version above is clicked from combination tanned Waxy Calf, but they’re also available in Taupe and Tobacco Suede.
Moto Leather Belt Slipon in Brown Cowhide: $344
Moto Leather has been hard at work making the Engineer boot of sandals. Clicked from Italian Vachetta, the Belt Slipon has—surprise—a buckle-equipped strap threaded through the single piece vamp and exposed heel counter that plays doubly duty as padding at the mouth. It’s a simple, clever design. As for guts, the insoles are moulded cork topped with leather, and there’s two rows of stitchdown securing the uppers to veg-tan midsoles and rubber outsoles. Available in brown…
Moto Leather Belt Slipon in Black Cowhide: $344
…and black.