Something is stirring? Maybe?
Anecdotally, it seems like a lot of these new releases are unashamedly staples, and that the pressure towards novelty over the last few years—crazier leather, colors, and constructions—that’s starting to ebb a little. But this week, at least, we’ve got some ready to wear Role Clubs from Brian the Bootmaker dropping next Monday, new outsole options for White’s 350 Chelsea, ropers and engineers from Zerrows at East West Apparel, and lots more below…
Our previous roundups are collected here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Role Club Engineer in Black Overdyed Chromexcel Horsehide (Releasing 3/2): $2,385
If you’re a bootmaker just starting out, taking custom orders makes it easier to ensure that every (very labor intensive) pair of boots sells. They also offer variety and the chance to make unique or experimental one-offs. But as an operation grows, the hassle of managing a months-or-years long waitlist and tracking the specifications and lead times of so many unique orders can quickly grow out of control. Role Club’s Brian the Bootmaker is about as established as they come, and over the last few years he’s increasingly begun to offer small production runs of ready to ship boots. His next release is March 2nd—a batch of engineer boots on his 1940 last, clicked from overdyed CXL horsehide. The outsoles are leather, and the boots are hand welted.
White’s C350 Chelsea in Cinnamon Waxed Flesh: $600
If the header is giving you deja vu, look at the outsoles. In October, Spokane legend White’s released a new Chelsea boot with a machine sewn stitchdown construction on the high-arched 55 last. Now, that wedge-soled version is joined by three new makeups with logger heels and Vibram 430 mini-lug outsoles: cinnamon and black waxed flesh…
White’s C350 Chelsea in Distress Roughout: $600
…alongside a version in the White’s classic Seidel distress roughout.
Zerrows Engineer Boots in Black Tea-Core Latigo: $1,126
East West Apparel just restocked a bunch of models from Zerrows, a Japanese brand who make funky sandals and nearly every conceivable form of very heavy (in a good way) boot. First: an engineer on their flat toe last—which has a wide but low profile toe, and lots of arch support—with a 270˚ flat welt and Vibram 269 half soles…
Zerrows Pecos Boots in Dark Brown Dagres Leather: $1,139
…as well as their 9″ roper in natural Chromexcel or brown Dagres cowhide. Both share their half soles and construction with the engineer above. Zerrows calls it a “direct welt” construction since the welts are attached to a channel in the insoles rather than fabric gemming, a technique Viberg and Bridlen also use. The Chromexcel version is on the sleeker semi-chisel toe last (and has a narrower fit in the toebox), while the last on the Dagres version bump toe with a comparatively squared off shape.
Rolling Dub Trio Gleaners Side Zip Boots in Black Calf: $775
Meanwhile, restocked pairs of the RDT’s always in-demand Gleaners side-zip…
Rolling Dub Trio Coupen Mid Cut in Black Kobe Shrink: $690
…and a version of Coupen in chrome-tanned and shrunken cowhide are both almost sold out at Standard & Strange.
Freenote Cloth x White’s Cruiser in C.F. Stead Crazy Cow: $850
Freenote is all up in the Pacific Northwest, with a new White’s collaboration released back to back with their first ever Nicks collab. The former is a 55 last Cruiser in C.F. Stead Crazy Cow with a lineman’s patch and Vibram half soles, assembled with White’s hand-rolled stitchdown…
Nicks Brakeman Engineer in Horween Spokane Black: $739
…while the Nicks’ are the Brakeman model, an engineer with a 10″ shaft. They have V-bar outsoles and Dr. Sole heels, and there’s also a pair with identical specs in cognac Shackleton.
Madhappy x Paraboot Michael in Alligator Embossed Cowhide: $650
Presumably intended for mucking out stalls on the bayou. The expected 260˚ Norwegian welt and rubber unit sole (both brown), and very Tyrolean but also very (faux) alligator uppers.
Wooten Smith Boot Original in Cocoa: $640
Australians are extremely serious about their Chelsea boots and Wooten is no exception. Their Smith Original is a new, ready-to-wear version of the Smith Work Boot from their (made to order) heritage line—designed with a round, moderately roomy toe and lower goring for casual wear. Underfoot are Vibram Tuscany commando soles, attached to the upper with a Blake Rapid construction.
Brick + Mortar “Westport” Indy Shoe in Hummus Brown Suede: $740
A cut-down, shoe-height Indy, Brick + Mortar’s “Westport” is clicked from hummus suede and and attached to a wedge sole with a 360˚ split-reverse welt, all on the Trubalance last.
Brick + Mortar “Moss Bay” Indy Boot in Tobacco Reverse Chamois: $765
They’re also stocking a very simmilar full height Indy, with Horween reverse chamois uppers rather than suede. It’s one of three reverse chamois makeups at Brick + Mortar this week, alongside another Indy shoe and a split-toe boot.
Grant Stone Fairfield Oxford in Chestnut Calf: $395
Finally, we’ve got six dressier styles at Grant Stone. The Fairfield oxford is a new brogued cap toe version of the otherwise minimalist style, with a single leather outsole and uppers available in chestnut, black, or tobacco calf.
Grant Stone Cap Toe Oxford in Black Calf: $395
While the unbrogued cap toe oxford is mostly remarkable for the fact that, because this Grant Stone, there’s a better selection of sizes and widths (D, E, and EEE) than you’ll find elsewhere, and potentially more to come down the line. If you need cap toe oxfords that actually fit, these are absolutely worth a look.