While can’t say for certain how you spent your week, we can help keep your feet insulated. Just stay clear of exploding trees. Read on for Division Road’s most recent collab, extraterrestrial teacore, some very terrestrial Guidi hikers, and lots more.
You’ll find all of our previous roundups here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Division Road x Tricker’s Churchill Boot in Tobacco Wax: $765
Only a few tanneries make veg-tan that’s really ideal for footwear, and they tend to be hot stuffed, fat liqoured, or otherwise heavily packed with oils and waxes to compensate for the relative inflexibility of the base tannage. Badalassi Carlo’s “Waxy” tannage—which just showed up on two new collaboration models from Division Road and Tricker’s—is a case in point, with a soft temper and a strong pull-up effect. The boots themselves include a Churchill Boot in tobacco, with a 360˚ split welt and a commando outsole…
Division Road x Tricker’s Stow Boot in Cognac Wax: $765
…as well as the brogued Stow boot, with a 360˚ storm welt and Dainite outsoles.
Viberg 145 Oxford in Natural Cypress: $995
Oak Street just picked up six new Viberg makeups. As far as we’re aware, it’s their single biggest Viberg drop of the last few years, and there are already a few sizes sold out in just about every style, including: a 145 Oxford on the tripple-E wide 110 last, with Natural Cypress Uppers and Dr. Sole half soles…
Viberg Service Boot 310 in Washed Brown Waxed Flesh: $1,040
…a waxed flesh 310, also with Dr. Sole half soles (check Victoria Tsao’s exemplary pair to see how waxed flesh ages on the 310 last)…
Viberg Bristol Loafer in Black Alpine Calf: $1,155
…and a handful of more formal models in Alpine calf. This pair of blacked-out Bristol loafers have a 270˚ flat welt (rather than the double-row stitchdown on the heavier models), and are built on a leather sole. They have a fraternal twin in Malt Alpine Calf…
Viberg Navy Boot BCT in Malt Alpine Calf: $1,292
…and both Malt and Black Alpine Calf are also available in boot form on Viberg’s Navyy pattern. Both colorways are outfitted with speed hooks and leather soles, held together by a 270˚ flat welt, and built on the Cantilever last—which has an anatomical shape without the anatomical look that can sometimes put people off.
Rose Anvil x Nicks Boots “Alien Core” Tanker: $685
This new collab takes the Blood Core leather that Rose Anvil developed with Seidel and gives it an extragalactic twist—the color green, which everyone knows is alien-blood color, and shows up more and more with heavy use. The pattern itself is Nicks’ tanker, built with 360˚ stitchdown and a lightweight Vibram Sierra sole. Anything that pushes people to put consistent wear on their footwear is alright by us.
Nonnative x Guidi Hiking Boots in Khaki Horsehide: $1,677
Definitely more expensive than other welted boots with comparable materials, but there are a few things Guidi does really well or that you just won’t find anywhere else. One of those is leather, though the rough-out on this collab hiker with Nonnative is a little more straightforward. Another is the object dying process, where the whole, assembled boot is dyed in what’s basically a giant tanning drum. That process is responsible for the color variation and worn look of many of their boots. Finally, there’s the look. Avant-garde aesthetics incentivize incentivize skimping on materials, because—if we’re being generous—that design work costs money and you need to find margin somewhere. Guidi is a rare point of overlap, and a welcome one.
Old Joe Brand “The Engineer” in Black Horsebutt: $964
In the U.S. and Europe, Old Joe Brand is best known for their clothing (after all, they were founded by a professional pattern-maker). Their boots are just as serious, and tend towards the same look: they brush up against formalwear in the shape and detail while still being clearly intended for casual, everyday use. The Engineer is a slim, 30’s inspired design with a short shaft and a low, unstructured toe. Vibram half soles and short heel are attached with a 270˚ flat welt. If you’re in the States and don’t want to order from Germany, it might be worth reaching out to Brogue, who also carry the brand.
Leffot x Alden Fifteen Penny in Brown Chromexcel: $740
Leffot’s original “Fifteen” penny was a chunky, cordovan LHS with a blocky crepe outsole. The Chromexcel version is toned down in a few different respects—the 360˚ flat welt gives the sole a narrower profile, and the machine sewn apron sits lower, among other things—but the basic elements are all there. They’re built on the Van last, though Leffot says they’ve asked for a higher vamp to improve the fit.
Grant Stone Traveler Penny in Dark Brown Aspen: $412
Two new Horween leathers are available on limited release makeups from Grant Stone: Aspen, on a Traveler penny loafer with a 260˚ flat welt and a micro stud outsole…
Grant Stone Country Derby in Glacé Latigo: $412
…and high-shine, pebbled Glacé Latigo on a Country Derby with a 360˚ flat welt and leather outsoles.
Oldspeed Mfg. Surface Sailor in Black Viking Calf: $810 (Made to Order)
Oldspeed’s custom orders are currently closed, but the first GMTO of the year is a derby based on the ubiquitous Navy deck shoe pattern. The very very good maker Dave is usually involved with boots, so are the brand’s first generally available shoe, and they’re executed with very tight double row stitchdown construction and Vibram outsoles, while the uppers are clicked from Gallun’s Viking Calf.
Real McCoys N-1 in Brown Veg-tan: $1,585
Lost & Found is stocking the Real McCoy’s N-1, which is more or a less a straightforward reproduction of the originals, with custom outsoles and a 270˚ flat welt. The main divergence is the veg-tan roughout used on the uppers, which we can’t imagine most will mind.
Brick + Mortar “Piers” Indy Shoe in Brown Kudu: $740 (Pre-Order)
We love an Indy shoe and this one’s as chonky as they get, with lug soles and kudu (just a name, not actually kudu leather) uppers. The Trubalance last hasn’t gotten any less comfortable since last time we covered a pair of these and enough makeups have been produced over the years to piece together a good idea of what the preorder will look like if you dig.