Now that we’re in our second year of the ultimate boot-aging contest they call the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome, the world (very much including us) can expect to get excited about plenty in this ridiculous/wonderful contest. The intrigue! The prizes! The patina!

Me, personally? I’m pumped to see what comes out of the woodwork in the way of Dome entries. One thing’s for sure—an ultra-unique pair isn’t a guarantee of placing at the top of the patina podium. Nonetheless, it fills me with a mixture of delight, wonder, and a little bit of jealousy to see what other folks have brought into the Thunderdome.

Tried-and-true models. Deadstock pairs. Custom MTO builds. Self-made boots. Rare makeups, like Grant Stone boots in Marbled Color 8 Shell Cordovan. Absolutely insane one-offs, like these Wesco Romeos made in multiple shades of Shinki shell. There’s just so much to ogle here.

So, I figured, why not chat up some of the owners of these awesome pairs? I reached out to a bunch of folks in both the Open Dome and Work Dome to find what they were rockin’, why they picked their pair in particular, how they were liking them, and how they were caring for them. Check it out…

nf milton boot tan workshoe butt

NF Bootmaker Milton Boot in Horween Tan Workshoe Butt, Worn By @worra

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I was just in love with how Nathan’s pattern looked, and once I tried them on for fit, I knew they’d be perfect. I chose the leather in person at Tannery Row back in April [on the Stitchdown Chicago Shoenanza trip], and I couldn’t have known then that I’d be able to Dome them, but once I did I certainly had a few people tell me “Workshoe Butt is a bad choice for the Dome, it’s really hard to patina”—which only made me want to wear it more! I also chose the color because I think it looks great with basically everything I wear, so it’s hard to find a reason not to choose them.

nf milton boot tan workshoe butt

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I’m absolutely loving them so far—the fit is really perfect for my foot, and despite being WSB, the break-in was a breeze. I don’t know if “surprised” is the word, but Nathan was able to click my vamps and quarters almost entirely in shell, and I’m stunned by how these boots refuse to crease at all, in the most beautiful way. 

Do you have a care routine?

No care routine other than a quick 10-second brushdown if they get excessively dirty just to prevent any excess build-up of crud. I haven’t conditioned them at all yet, but I’ll probably do it at least once this winter once they start to look thirsty in the cold and dry weather.

nicks boots builderpro 1964 walnut roughout

Nicks Boots BuilderPro in 1964 Walnut Roughout, Worn By @darknova306

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I had gone back and forth for a long time about grabbing some PNW boots for work in our brewery. I ran across the exact pair that I was eyeballing in my size on the “Ready To Ship” section of the Nicks site in August and decided to go for it. It was close enough to the start of the Dome, so I decided to wait and enter them in the Work Dome.

nicks boots builderpro 1964 walnut roughout

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I’m loving them so far! They feel like a suit of armor on my feet and I don’t fear anything with them on. I’m sure they’ll weather everything I throw at them and keep asking for more. The biggest surprise has been how easy the break-in has gone. They were pretty comfy right out of the box. The only issue I really had was that the initial stiffness of the outsole/midsole/insole combination made crouching (which I do frequently) a serious challenge. Thankfully they’ve loosened up now where I completely forget I have them on, even at the end of twelve tough hours on concrete.

Do you have a care routine?

Not yet, other than hosing them off once in a while to keep dry hop sludge from solidifying on the roughout (#DryHopPatina). That’s a pain to clean if it dries. My plan is to give them a deep clean maybe once every six months (maybe saddle soap? not sure yet), then condition and possibly grease them. I’ve never worn roughout in the brewery, so it’s a “play it by ear” situation.

new river boondocker natural chromexcel horse strip

New River Boots Boondocker in Horween Natural Chromexcel Horse Strip, Made and Worn By @Crocket1404

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I picked this pair because at the moment a well loved boondocker with an unstructured toe is what I picture when I think about the perfect pair of boots. Also you don’t see CXL horsebutt strip used very often, so I thought it would be a good combination. Especially after seeing an interview of Skip Horween talking about what a great boot leather it was.

new river boondocker natural chromexcel horse strip

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I am liking them a lot. I haven’t wanted to wear anything else since I put them on. No surprises.

Do you have a care routine?

After each wear I brush them for a couple minutes with a horse hair brush, sometimes boar bristle brush depending on how dirty they are. When they need it, a wipe down with a damp cloth and a little VSC.

flame panda cap toe service boot marbled black shell cordovan

Flame Panda Brogue Cap Toe Service Boot in Horween Marbled Black Shell Cordovan, Worn By @weathered.hide

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I’d ordered these from Flame Panda (Peng) a long time ago, and they just happened to be completed a couple of months before the start of this year’s Dome. They’re the most perfect boots in my collection, and (for my tastes) among the best of any type from any maker I’ve ever seen. It took a great deal of willpower to not wear them for several weeks, but it was worth it to have the perfect excuse to then wear them as much as reasonably possible for six straight months!

flame panda cap toe service boot marbled black shell cordovan

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I absolutely love them! I sometimes even wear them with my pajamas, on nights I’m up working late from home. The only thing I’m surprised by is how uneventful break-in has been—there’ve been no hotspots at all in the first month. They’re easily my most comfortable shell cordovan boots, so that’s a huge bonus. And while the pattern is dress-booty for the most part, the black marble shell has a lot going on (green and other colorful goodness mixed in with the black). Those colors combined with the green sole and heel make them super versatile. I wear them with almost anything—even pajamas.

Do you have a care routine?

Brush, brush, brush! Horween shell cordovan is magical, hot stuffed with oils and greases. So taking full advantage of what Horween packed into the shell is my main care strategy, and that means not using a wax polish on top so that I can more easily bring out what Horween put in with brushing. On unpolished shell, I can bring up Horween’s oils and greases to the surface rather readily with a pig bristle brush, which is stiffer than horsehair—enough so that it gives the shell surface a lightly greasy hand. 

The next step is brushing vigorously with a long-bristle horsehair brush, which works up a shine with the help of the called-up conditioners from within. If I do this well enough, I can even see horsehair bristle marks in the oils/greases right on the shell surface, within the shine. A goat hair brush to finish things smooths everything out, imparting a glassier glow. I have a couple of dense yak hair shoeshine brushes arriving from Germany tomorrow, and will see where those fit in. During the Thunderdome, if needed, I’ll apply a light conditioner like Bick 4—but only if absolutely necessary, and as sparingly as possible.

unsung slog boot english tan dublin roughout

Unsung U 22-1 Slog Boot in Horween English Tan Dublin Roughout, Made and Worn By @Unsung (Grant of Unsung Repair House)

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I chose this pair because we have two models that we’re almost ready to open the books and take orders for, and this model, the Slog boot, happens to be one of those. I figured this would be useful additional stress testing, but also maybe some good marketing?

unsung slog boot english tan dublin roughout

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I like the roughout a lot, they’re so comfortable now. I’m definitely a one-pair-at-a-time boot wearer, so I have no issue wearing the same pair, but the comfort and clean lines of this pattern have me excited to lace them up in the morning. I’ve been wearing different prototypes of this boot for the last 8 months or so, no big surprises—might make some little adjustments to the pattern after this pair, but each time I start in on a new prototype, it brings a new set of minor revelations.

Do you have a care routine?

I brush them with a brass bristled brush every once in a while, but I haven’t done much in the first month. I might consider oiling them sometime in the middle of the Thunderdome, we’ll see.

onderhoud boondocker unglazed natural shell cordovan

Onderhoud SVC01 Boondocker in Horween Unglazed Natural Shell Cordovan, Worn By @horweendreams

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?  

I was very lucky to win the Onderhoud lottery near the start of last year’s Thunderdome and knew an MTO with Rizky was the perfect opportunity to build a contender. Rizky is great to work with and he was willing to take the time to gather all the components for my specs. I knew I’d want a plain toe boot with an unstructured toe for maximum rolls. A plain toe boondocker is such a classic makeup and Rizky’s stitching work makes his model my favorite one out there. 

For the leather, I went with Horween Unglazed Shell Cordovan. Unglazed shell is easily my favorite type of leather because it has all the great crease-proof features we love about shell without the high-shine that can sometimes look a bit plastic. Because we were going for an unstructured toe, Rizky was only willing to do unstructured shells if he could find a thick hide. Luckily he found some 4mm thick ones out of England’s A.A.Crack. We went with an extra-long black contrasting shell tongue to create a bit of interest. For the cherry on top (bottom?), I wanted to go with a Cats Paw heel. I ultimately found an eBay seller who was willing to ship internationally, so getting the heel to to Indonesia was a non-issue. 

onderhoud boondocker unglazed natural shell cordovan

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

The process and the boots exceeded my expectations in every way. The finishing is superb and thick shells  are resisting creasing as I had hoped. His stitching is really a sight to behold.

Do you have a care routine?

I have a very minimalistic approach to conditioning. I try to get an even coat as light as possible. To accomplish this, I usually put a small dab of Bick 4 on a cotton cloth and rub the conditioner into the cloth until it’s barely wet to the touch. I then can use pressure to determine how much conditioner gets transferred. I choose Bick 4 because it doesn’t deposit waxes which darken the leather or add shine. If I want a little shine at the expense of some darkening, I’ll reach for Saphir Renovateur. I prefer a boar’s hair brush over horse hair because it gets the deep scuffs out faster—Kirby Alison makes my favorite

With all that said, I’m holding off conditioning these as long as possible. Unglazed shell will darken substantially and gloss over during the first conditioning. I would usually condition a boot right away, so these are a rare exception on account of the Thunderdome. Some errant greasy projectile from my 1-year-old daughter will likely make me regret this approach… but this is for science. 

nicks prospector natural dublin

Nicks Boots Prospector in Horween Natural Dublin, Worn By @BigDudeInDenim

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I couldn’t decide on a pair for the Dome but knew it was getting a bit close. A fellow Stitchdown Premium member suggested I reach out to Nicks. I did so and we collaborated on the leather choice and boot design based on their needs and my aesthetic choices. Hence the Prospector in Natural Dublin, which they were planning on offering via website soon. (ed. note: they’re now available to order via custom configuration!)

nicks prospector natural dublin

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?  

They are functional, fit well, and I dig the look with the sprung toe last. The patina is coming in fast and hard and the Dublin leather is both durable and flexible. It’s kinda magic. The most surprising thing is how clean the stitching is on the sole. Amazing work.

Do you have a care routine?

Dublin doesn’t need much to be honest. If and when they feel like they need to be cleaned or conditioned, I’ll brush them really good. Wipe them down with a damp cloth. Then probably hit em with some Smith’s Leather Balm. I’ll rub that in with my hands and let them sit overnight. Brush them again in the morning and go right back to wearing them. Trying to do a three days wearing and one day off routine with these. So they are definitely getting some serious wear.

onderhoud packer natural oiled horsebutt

Onderhoud SVC02 Packer Boot in Shinki Natural Oiled Horsebutt, Worn By @aj2603

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I was originally going to do a lace-to-toe boot from Onderhoud in Badalassi Bone, but Rizky said he had some Natural Shinki Horsebutt in stock. At that point in time, I did not own any horsebutt and I was always fascinated by the leather. The Packer boot was an obvious choice, since it’s one of his best models. So I chose this because it’s a versatile design/pattern, I always wanted this leather, and the natural color gives it some good patina potential.

onderhoud packer natural oiled horsebutt

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I have grown quite found of them. The leather was a bit on the thicker and stiffer side, but I think I have managed to break them in. I was surprised by the lack of consistency of that typical Shinki texture—some parts have it and some don’t. I was also surprised by the comfort of a 7″ tall boot. This is my first tall boot and the support of the height has been incredible.

Do you have a care routine?

I brush them every day, and that’s about it. After three or four days after initial wear, I conditioned them with Bick 4. The conditioning helped with the breaking in of the boot, especially in the ankle area. I am planning to give them a good conditioning next month, which should be fun.

oak street bootmakers trench boot dark waxy wild boar

Oak Street Bootmakers Trench Boot in Dark Waxy Wild Boar, Worn By @Lazy Spread

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I wanted a unique leather. Not necessarily exotic or rare, but largely undocumented (in the Patina Project). Other selection criteria were style, comfort, durability, availability, accessibility, and affordability. I was first made aware of this particular boot by a Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week post on Stitchdown. The Trench Boot itself seemed fine, but the boar leather and the story of the resurrected Gallun Tannery was very intriguing. I watched the Oak Street Bootmakers website for weeks thinking that I might like wearing these, when they suddenly went on sale for 30% off. At that point it was a no-brainer. 

I’m new to the world of welted footwear. My usual objective with boots is to make them last as long as possible, and look as close to new condition for as much of that time as possible. Quite opposite from this mindset of fashion patina and the Thunderdome, right? So I usually prefer dark leathers, as they change less over time. Usually, with new boots, I look forward to the first time I‘m able to treat them with mink oil so they’ll darken and I’ll know what I’m working with long term. My past boots have usually been lined, cushioned, cemented, and pretty durable. These Oak Street boar boots are the opposite of all that. I’m looking forward to seeing what the leather does, and not hiding it.

oak street bootmakers trench boot dark waxy wild boar

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

The pattern is pretty basic and functional. Not necessarily high style, but proven form. The vamp and toe box both are extremely wide, especially when viewed from above. Reminds me somewhat of a pair of Timberland fashion/hiking-ish boots I wore a ton in college back in the 1990s. I’ve added a pair of walnut roughout kilties (darkened with mink oil) to help break up the large expanse of the seemingly never-ending vamp. 

I like the natural edging of the midsole and the heel stack. I like the white welt stitching. I like the brass hardware. The leather is unlike anything I’ve ever had on footwear. One of the coolest features is the fact that it seems that you can see each individual hair follicle. This really lends a tremendous amount of character to the boots. This is my first experience with Dainite soles and I hear mixed reviews, so we’ll see. Another competitor has entered a pair of these in the Open Dome, and has already commented on the drastic pullup—so I am committed to learning to like that! 

Do you have a care routine?

These are entered in the #WorkDome, so keep in mind that care might seem a bit different or unconventional. My normal routine for workboots at the end of the day is to lightly rinse/scrub with our wash water, which usually consists of a bit of laundry detergent (Tide), slightly dirty water, applied with a stiff nylon-bristle brush. This knocks off the dust or mud, depending on what we’ve been doing that particular day. The nylon bristles shouldn’t really bother any durable leather (such as wild boar). 

Now, these being boar, if you’ve ever felt live pig hair or had a hog rub up against your legs as he pushes by, you’ll know that swine has the most coarse, bristly, wiry, steel-wool-like hair…and that might be the best thing to brush these boots! Kidding aside; I picked up a bottle of Venetian shoe cream, and my daughter has Bick 4 that she’ll loan me if needed. We’ll experiment with these as time goes.

rolling dub trio stoker black horsebutt

Rolling Dub Trio Roots Stoker in Original Black Horsebutt #1010, Worn By @denimondenimondenim

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I showed them to my wife, and she said, “the higher the boot, the closer to God.” Then I bought them. I actually thought, maybe incorrectly, that a knee-high engineer would synthesize better into my wardrobe, which includes a lot of tapered bottoms. I think I prefer a tucked-in bottom on a knee-high engineer over a standard engineer height. Also, I heard the last was Munson based but tweaked for Asian feet, which appealed to me. I’ve been into barefoot shoes, so I’ve been looking for lasts with a similar shape and a ton of toe space. I also saw pictures of this leather aged and it seemed teacore AF, which felt very fitting for our purposes. 

rolling dub trio stoker black horsebutt

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I love them! I wear them all the time, basically anytime outside of going to work out. I was a little surprised about the fit. The general recommendation is to size down 1 from Brannock for narrow feet (like mine). I went half down, thinking I would need to add an insert or wear thicker socks. I actually don’t need any of that. This pair really affirmed my preferences, last shape and a roomier fit. 

Do you have a care routine?

So far, I’m just brushin’. I might hit it with Bick 4 at some point. 

paraboot chambord nubuck gringo

Paraboot Chambord in Nubuck Gringo, Worn By @frans

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I selected this pair because I needed badly a shoe which balanced between a dress shoe and a casual shoe. I was looking for something similar to a Doc Martens shoe with that character but offering better quality and a better fit. It was a perfect choice for me. It’s really easy to dress them up or down, and they match almost anything in my closet. I think it’s my most versatile pair so far, and I’m really glad that I pulled the trigger on them. I really appreciate this Nubuck Gringo leather. Despite being an oily type of leather, it’s not that easy to scratch like a typical oily Chromexcel. 

paraboot chambord nubuck gringo

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by? 

I was surprised by the heel counter being really not pleasant to break in. I had a really bad blister after only an hour of wear. Except that, they are really comfortable now, surprisingly bouncy—almost like a sneaker, but with the stability of a leather shoe, which I really admire.

Do you have a care routine? 

It’s almost care-free, besides occasional brushing and using shoe trees after a long day. I think this leather will age beautifully and these brown shades will get very rich and interesting after a few months of wear. 

whites boots cutter brown russian calf

White’s Boots 350 Cutter in J&FJ Baker Brown Russian Calf, Worn By @CarmineJackLeather

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I knew that I wanted something with J&FJ Baker & Co’s Russian calf leather. I wanted to show people how the leather stood up to regular every day wear and tear. It is said to be a very hardwearing leather because of the tanning process, but up to now I hadn’t seen any examples of shoes or boots that really put the leather through its paces, and understandably so. It’s an expensive leather. There are a lot of very traditional steps required to create the leather and they are all done by hand. I wanted something that I could stomp around in during the harsh Minnesota winter, which is why I reached out to White’s to have them made. Old school tanning methods meets PNW construction.

whites boots cutter brown russian calf

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I love these things. The color is exactly what I wanted—this deep brown with dark crimson and burgundy tones. I’m not worldly enough to better describe the color, but every time I look down I know it’s the perfect color for me. Plus, every now and again when taking them on or off, I get this hit of birch oil aroma that just makes me smile. There are some areas where the leather Is starting to teacore, which is a nice surprise. It’s got a ways to go (and knowing Bakers leather its not going to be a very fast teacore), but I think it will look pretty cool once they get salt and dirty snow scraped against them. 

Do you have a care routine?

I brush em when they are dirty, or when I just want to admire them. Other than that, right now I don’t mess with ‘em. The leather was dressed with oils and greases at the tannery, so it really doesn’t need much right now. I did need to put a little conditioner on the welt area because there are areas that seem to be drying out a bit along the end. That was a bit surprising. But, that is the kind of stuff that I want to show everyone with this leather!

monroe ltt natural cowhide

Monroe 19917 LTT in Tochigi Natural Cowhide, Worn By @chilly_chonka

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I wanted a pair tough enough to handle a Midwestern winter, with a high-quality, patina-friendly vegetable-tanned leather. Monroe offered the perfect combination of pattern, last and leather for me. They also have a quick turnaround on orders and are very easy to work with.

monroe ltt natural cowhide

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

The Tochigi leather is beautiful, and holding up really well. Monroe’s lace-to-toe pattern is a good balance of rugged and refined, and I’ve gotten a few compliments already from strangers who like the aesthetic. I haven’t had a chance to test the Vibram 100 sole in the snow yet, but the grip has been excellent so far for hiking and yard work. Probably the biggest surprise to me was that my wife thinks they look “like Timberlands”, which I guess is her way of saying she likes them. 

Do you have a care routine?

My care routine is a lot of brushing and the occasional wipe down with a damp cloth. For a conditioner I am using Skidmore’s Leather Cream, which I really like. It seems to showcase patina well and provide some level of water resistance, which will be essential come winter.

blkbrd fenrir chukka brown bison

Blkbrd Shoemaker Fenrir Chukka Boot in Chestnut Tan Bison, Worn By @ifticar2

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

For this Dome, I want to show that you don’t need to skip a rent payment on some Japanese hand crafted boot made of Shinki Color 1071 CXL Horsebutt to get an incredible pair of boots with amazing patina. I also wanted to purchase from an up and coming South Asian brand since I am Bengali myself, and don’t see any representation from that region in our community. From this, I discovered Blkbrd—handmade, handwelted shoes from Agra, India, much of it under $200. After talking to them, they seemed like a passionate team that, with some support, would be able to build incredible footwear with some of the best leathers in the world. 

Based on that, I chose the Fenrir Chukka boot, in a beautiful brown grained leather and Norwegian construction. Since then, I and others have shared Blkbrd within the community, and this has helped Blkbrd get some more premium leathers from tanneries like Horween, Stead, and Zonta. I love my Blkbrds, and I hope my Doming them will show people you don’t need to spend big to get incredible boots, while also helping Blkbrd grow, and be able to take their product to the next level, just like a lot of Indonesian makers have.

blkbrd fenrir chukka brown bison

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

Loving them. The chukka pattern is extremely versatile, going well with jeans, dress pants, and even shorts. I was told by one of the bespoke makers at Gaziano & Girling that chukkas are the most versatile boot pattern, and after owning these, I can definitely agree with that. I also love the Norwegian stitching, which adds some visual interest to the boot without looking ostentatious. One thing I am surprised by is the lightness and flexibility of the boots. They still feel very solid, but they were made for Indian consumers, so there is a fabric lining to increase breathability, and the sole in general feels very flexible. The boots feel like a nice, supportive glove, and I easily forget I am even wearing boots when I have them on.

Do you have a care routine?

I have the normal care routine with these. I put the lasted shoe trees in after wearing every day, and will brush them if they got particularly dirty. Everyone, please remember to not over-condition your shoes! Depending on how thirsty the leather is looking, I plan to condition either half way through the Dome, and the end, or every two months. My Blkbrds came with a care kit that included Blkbrd-branded conditioner, that looks like lotion and smells nice and minty. If I was careless, I can definitely imagine myself putting it on my face after shaving. But the conditioner goes on leather easily, and gives a nice, subtle shine so I plan on using it when I do condition my boots.

alden pct jumper old bronze shell cordovan

Alden PCT Jumper Boot in Horween Old Bronze Shell Cordovan, Worn By @JupiterIsBeautiful

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

This pair was a huge surprise from Yenni a few months before the Dome. My girlfriend and I went into Brick + Mortar to look around. We got to chatting (as always) with Yenni and Sean. Yenni popped out with a pair in my size. My girlfriend said it would make a great birthday present, and of course I agreed and they came home with me! And then…I just never wore them, because I was honestly a little afraid to. I had only seen one or two pictures of this makeup on Instagram. And I all of a sudden had a pair? And I was going to wear them?? So it finally got to be Dome time, and I figured why not. I had always planned on wearing them, so why not just sign them up.

alden pct jumper old bronze shell cordovan

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by?

I really like them. The green tones of the leather really pop out when in the sun. They match my wardrobe really well. I wear a lot of earth tones and denim. I’m really looking forward to how they evolve. One slight negative for me is the leather sole. I live in Seattle, so walking around on wet concrete isn’t a great combination. I could get a topy or something depending on how things go.

Do you have a care routine?

I usually just brush shoes and boots, or if they are muddy, wipe it off with a damp cloth. This pair is no different in that sense. I am a pretty low maintenance shoe person in general and it’s no different in the Dome. I may put some Venetian shoe cream on them if I want some shine back or if they feel like they need it. 

nicks boots natural double stuffed

Nicks Boots 5” Custom Boot in Wickett & Craig Natural Double Stuffed, Made and Worn By @lucus

Why did you select this pair for the Thunderdome?

I am beyond blessed to work at Nicks. Five days a week I get to work with the most talented and hardworking people in the world. I see every boot build that a boot nerd could dream up. I get to see and touch every leather from the best tanneries in the world. It’s amazing! I am beyond blessed.

The one boot I hadn’t seen from Nicks was a 5” service style boot. I own boots with 4”, 6”, and 8” heights, so It made sense to make a 5” boot as my 2022 Dome boot. I ran my boot idea past a few of my coworkers and got zero pushback. For the leather, I was going back and forth between Horween Natural CXL and Natural Dublin. Both are bucket list leathers for me. I like to visit the cutting department a few times a week to see what new leather options we have. I also like to check out leathers that may have changed or I’ve overlooked.

One of the leathers that I had overlooked was a proprietary leather from Wickett & Craig called Natural Double Stuffed. I unrolled a few hides and couldn’t believe what I was seeing. It was the most beautiful and unique leather I had ever seen. I had my 2022 Patina Thunderdome build.

nicks boots natural double stuffed

How are you liking them? Anything you’re surprised by? 

I love this pair of boots. I’m a month into wearing them and they’re easily my favorite pair. They’re simple, elegant, and comfortable. When I take them off at the end of the day I find myself staring at them. My wife thinks I’m the biggest nerd in the world! I’m just really proud. A lot of planning and care went into building them. I included little details that no one but me and a few people nerdier than me will ever notice.

The only thing that surprises me is how amazing this new Wickett & Craig leather is. I had no idea. Before building my pair I hadn’t seen any boots with this leather out in the wild. I had no idea how it was going to hold up to daily wear, sun, rain, and snow—Spokane is just now getting into that season, so we’ll see how that goes. After a month of daily wear, I can honestly say that this leather is my all-time favorite of all time. It’s stuffed with so much wax, oil, and tallow that I can see it darken a little as my foot warms it up. It’s really cool. Every morning I put them on I’m blown away by how amazing it is.

Do you have a care routine?

I try not to obsess with care routines. I like to keep it simple and not overdo it. I’ve torn down enough boots with too much and too little care routine. Boots packed with so much conditioner that it filled the gaps under the insole. I’ve seen other boots that were so dry that the leather had to soak in hot water for several hours just to get a boot last in.

The routine on all my previous boots is a horsehair brush once a week and a condition once a month. If I’m sanding boots back in production I give them a quick hit with the air compressor to knock any dust off. Depending on the leather, it’s either Smith’s Leather Balm or Venetian Shoe Cream for the conditioner. This Wickett & Craig Double Stuffed leather is basically self-conditioning. So my only routine for this pair is to brush it once or twice a week. I wish I could say it was more complicated than this but I am doing nothing to these boots and getting all the credit. It’s the perfect leather.

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