After a few weeks off (we’re people!) this is our deepest roundup in some time—24 new pairs. We’re running the full spectrum from trad to fashion collabs this week, with Nicks x Division Road work boots and Freenote x White’s Oxfords, a brand new Viberg chukka pattern for their their iteration of their collab with David Coggins, beefy square toed boots from Grenson and 3sixteen, and of course a whole lot more below.
Also do NOT forget your last chance to enter the 2025-26 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome footwear aging contest with over $50k in prizes on the line is November 1-5—and anything in here that’s ready to ship is eligible as long as it’s new when you make your official submission in the Patina Project app.
Check out the roundup archives here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Division Road x Nicks Boots Workman Moc in Color 8 Cypress: $785
Division Road and Nicks have been quietly cranking behind the scenes on a (hopefully long-term) collaboration, and the results are here: a duo of new boots, including these 6″ “black cherry” moc toes in combination tanned Horween Cypress, spec’ed with double row stitchdown construction and a Christy wedge sole…
Division Road x Nicks Jungle Jump Boot in Greener Pastures Shackleton: $785
…as well as some 8″—and seriously tough looking—”Jungle Jump Boots” with 360˚ stitchdown construction and Vibram Sierra outsoles. Both models have an all eyelet hardware setup and cutouts on the facings for added flexibility. Very DR, very Nicks…this should be quite the fruitful team-up.
David Coggins x Viberg Outsider III in Bison Janus Calf Suede: $1,030
Viberg’s collab with gadfly angler/author David Coggins is now in its third iteration, this time making the jump from Chelseas to a brand new Chukka pattern. It’s built on the sleeker 1905 last, with short quarters that follow the line of the apron. They’re short even for a chukka, and the proportions remind us a little bit of the Arpenteur x Paraboot chukkas—I think it’s safe to say a lot of thought went into this design. As for the construction, there’s a 360˚ split welt and a Lactae Hevea outsole.
David Coggins x Viberg Outsider II in Tobacco Calf Suede: $1,175 (Pre-order)
They’re also opening a preorder on the collab’s previous iteration. The Outsider II is a Chelsea in Conceria Opera’s full grain calf, constructed with a lug sole from Lactae Hevea and a 360˚ split welt on the 2040 Chelsea last (basically a 2040 without the bump toe). Both models are recognizably Viberg, but also push into new territory—with the LH lugs and embroidered pull tabs, for example, or the new chukka pattern— and by our lights that’s exactly how a partnership like this should work.
Harley Davidson x White’s Boots Stockman in Brown Chromexcel: $775
White’s just released a new Harley-fied pull-on version of their Stockman, with a 12″ shaft and the same 1970 last as White’s engineers. The brown Chromexcel uppers are overdyed black, and the single-row machine sewn stitchdown results in a closer edge on the Vibram 700 outsoles, for a slightly leaner look. They sold out fast but we’re including them because 2), they’re cool boots even if you can’t buy them and we are here to document shit and, 2) we might just see this pattern again—you never know.
Freenote Cloth x White’s Boots Oxford in Brown Roughout: $800 (Pre-order)
Freenote’s collabs tend to be unique staples—nothing needlessly flashy, but always one or two interesting modifications. Here that comes in the form of a thinner, light weight insole to reduce stiffness and White’s Swing last, which has a much wider toebox and a slightly lower arch than the 55. They’re built with an unstructured toe box using White’s handsewn stitchdown construction on Vibram wedge soles. And if that still isn’t enough boot you can add an (optional) linesmans patch…
Freenote Cloth x White’s Boots Cruiser in Urban Brown Crazy Cow: $850 (Pre-order)
…to either of the two models, which brings us to the Cruiser. Freenote stuck with the 55 last for these, paired with V-bar half soles and the same handsewn stitchdown. The uppers are clicked from C.F. Stead’s Crazy Cow, which uses a layer of wax beneath the top coat to try and achieve extra shine and a more interesting patina. It’s gnarly stuff in the best way. Expected to ship 8-10 weeks after the pre-order closes on October 17th.
Iron Boots ‘The Iron Boondocker’ in Crust Double Shot Roughout: $775
After many years and no shortage of requests, Iron Boots is releasing their take on the Boondocker, built around the wide but shallow-toed M43 last. Clicked from Seidel’s Double Shot, they use a hand welted construction and Raw Cord full soles from Dr. Sole. They also have rivets on the quarters, and…
Iron Boots ‘The Iron Boondocker’ in Waxed Crust Double Shot Roughout: $875
…you can get them waxed by their very own photographer/bootsman about the world Aaron, which Iron Boots added as an option after he waxed his own pair for the Patina Thunderdome.
Rolling Dub Trio Loro in Black Horsebutt: $1,390
If you took the cowboy boot form but executed like a Goodyear welted boot—a 180˚ flat welt, thick horsebutt uppers, and a rubber topy—and then you made them quite nicely in Japan, you’d end up with something pretty close to these Loros by Rolling Dub Trio. The last is Munson-derived, but with heavy modifications to achieve the sprung, square toe and a narrower fit as a consequence. They’re a blend of two things that we love (the Japanese bootmaking scene and cowboy boots), and we love them all the more for it.
Grant Stone Diesel Boot in Tan Brooklyn Calf: $435
The latest leather to join the (now) twenty five options available on the Diesel is Brooklyn Calf from C.F. Stead, a pull-up, vegetable tanned calfskin. Otherwise though, this is still Grant Stone’s familiar core model, with 360˚ flat welt, a micro stud outsole, and build around the almond-toed Leo last.
Alden x Snake Oil Provision Castro Boot in Saddle Calf: $734
The Castro boot is an ode to an old makeup by Unionmade—a San Fransisco retailer who closed their doors in 2019. This one is worth bringing back: a wedge soled take on the Indy with a 360˚ flat welt in saddle calf.
Iron Heart x Wesco Journeyman in British Tan: $793
An 8″ take on the Wesco’s Jobmaster, the Journeyman doesn’t stray far from the work boot on which its based. Even the leather is Seidel’s Domane in British Tan: quite attractive, but definitely functional. The construction is single row stitchdown, on a Vibram Raptor wedge sole. And by the way, Wesco’s wait times continue to creep down on their own site.
Easymoc Rangeley Boot in Stone Rambler and Roughout: $795
There are guide boots, and then there’s the Rangeley—the Maine DNA is definitely visible and yet they’re unmistakably their own thing. Said thing is handsewn moccasin on a Vibram Montagna outsole, and the most recent version is clicked from Stone Rambler (the vamps and plugs) and Stone Roughout (the quarters and backstay), both from Stead.
J.M. Weston Commando 180 Loafer in Tan Boxcalf: $915
On the other side of the Atlantic, J.M. Weston released a lug soled version of its legitimately iconic 180 loafer in tan boxcalf. The high walled, squared off uppers and 360˚ storm welts combine with the outsoles to give them an imposing look. If we had a giant chessboard where all the pieces were shoes, these would definitely be the rooks.
Universal Works x Paraboot Michael Uw in Smooth/Velvet Sand: $598
Nottingham’s Universal Works has a new version of the Paraboot Michael, which inverts the usual (smooth) plug and heel pieces, replacing them with roughout, and adds a kiltie for dramatic affect. There are three colorways, but the natural is our favorite.
YMC x Grenson Transmission Boots in Black Chromexcel: $730
This is now the third time that Grenson has collaborated with You Must Create. This time we’ve got a high shafted and square toed “transmission boot” in black Chromexcel, with a side zip closure and a leather outsole…
YMC x Grenson Division Oxford in Black Bookbinder: $660
…a super distinctive split-toe oxford design with a micro-stud half sole, in addition to a few other models you can check out here. The bookbinder used on this pair is heavily corrected so different from most of the leathers we cover, but Grenson always uses the best ‘binder out there. And there’s a solid build to back up the design. Grenson’s traditional-meets-experimental approach is arguably most at home on projects like this, and we’re glad to see this one return.
3sixteen Square Toe Side Zip Boot in Black Calf: $550
3sixteen just restocked their take on a chunky, squared-off side zip boot, drawing on Frye’s campus boots for the last and adding a fine apron that stretches all the way back to the heel. Built with a 360˚ flat welt, they use vegtable tanned calfskin uppers, rubber outsoles, and YKK zippers.
Crown Northampton Everdon ‘Rambler’ Wholecut Mid in Chestnut Norwegian Ox: $503 (Made to Order)
One advantage of Crown Northampton’s relatively small scale production is that they can deploy materials which either aren’t suited to, or don’t exist in large enough quantities for mass production. The Norwegian Shrunken Ox on this week’s Rambler release falls into the latter category, a twelve year old batch of sample hides with a tight grain structure on the surface and looser fibers beneath. Originally tanned for Hermes, it’s now available in four different colorways on the lug-soled, whole cut Everdon Rambler, including Chestnut…
Crown Northampton Everdon ‘Rambler’ Wholecut Mid in Chestnut Norwegian Ox: $503 (Made to Order)
…and Oak, alongside Black and Snuff. The sneakers have Vibram cup soles and can be resoled by some cobblers, or by Crown themselves.
Hender Scheme Mouton Henri in Tobacco: $327
Hender’s most recent scheme are these sheepskin lined Tyrolean shoes in Springbok tanned by C.F. Stead. A single row of stitchdown attaches the uppers directly to the poly-nylon lug sole. Hardly the craziest thing Hender Scheme has done (veg-tan timberland collab?), but potentially very cozy.
Oak Street Bootmakers Woodland Moc in Natural Chromexcel: $278
Oak Street’s soft-soled Woodland Moc is back, this time in natural Chromexcel. The model is a moccasin with a Chromepak outsole that stitched directly to upper with a handsewn seam that runs all the way around the shoe.
Meermin Chelsea in Brown Silkcalf: $280
Meermin has a new (wholecut) Chelsea model, as well as a new last to build them on—the ORION, which has a soft chiseled toe and a snug heel. Clicked from Silkcalf and constructed with a 360˚ flat welt on rubber outsoles. As always, hard to find a better value.